The Maldives, off the southwest coast of India, comprise so many
numerous, small islands—the Rihla puts their number at 2000—that
Ibn Battuta could be confident of escaping Sultan Ibn Tughluq's agents—or even
his notice altogether.
The ruler of the Maldives, Queen Rehendi Kilege, locally called
Khadija, was a puppet of her husband, the vizier. Despite Ibn Battuta's attempts
to keep a low profile, the royal couple soon heard that a well-traveled qadi—indeed,
one who had served in the metropolis of Delhi—was in their midst. As they had
no one in the islands filling the office of qadi at the time, they
invited Ibn Battuta to take up the post, and they made it clear that they would
not take "no" for an answer.
So reasoning with myself that I was in their power and that
if I did not stay of my own free will I would be kept by main force, and that it
was better to stay of my own choice, I said to his messenger, "Very well, I
shall stay."
For the next few months Ibn Battuta enjoyed the perquisites of
power while acting in the familiar function of qadi, punishing thieves
and adulterers, adjudicating disputes, and even trying, quite unsuccessfully, to
require women to cover themselves more fully than island custom dictated. He
married into the royal family, and soon found himself the husband of four wives,
the full complement allowed under Islamic law. All of these unions were, at
least in part, political, and it was not long before Ibn Battuta, whose Delhi
credentials made him a big fish in this very small pond, began to acquire a
power base of his own among the local nobles. This led to a falling out with the
rulers and his departure under suspicion—apparently well-founded—of plotting
a coup d'état. In a mere seven months Ibn Battuta had gone from a much-courted qadi
to qadi non grata
He went to Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), which Marco Polo had
described as "size for size, the most beautiful isle in the world."
There he rekindled his spiritual side, and made a trek up to the heights of
Adam's Peak, where he met Christians and Hindus, for the place was revered in
all three faiths. Along the way, he noted the abundance of rubies and sapphires,
monkeys and "flying leeches."
On the way back to the Coromandel Coast, on the eastern flank of
India, a fierce squall broke up his ship. He got his wives safely aboard a raft,
but there was no room on it for him, and Ibn Battuta was not a good swimmer. He
clung to the slowly sinking stern of the ship through the night. In the morning,
just as it appeared to be going down for good, a boat of local fishermen
arrived. They set him on his way to the sultan, who proved to be Ibn Battuta's
brother-in-law, the brother of a former wife in Delhi—one of those
coincidences that highlight the "small world" of 14th-century nobility
in Dar al-Islam.
Ibn Battuta and the sultan, Ghiyath al-Din, plotted their joint
return to the Maldives, accompanied by a military force that would carry out the
unrealized coup. But on the way back to the coast with the expeditionary force,
the qadi was repelled by his ally's brutal treatment of non-Muslim
prisoners, calling his behavior "an abomination" and asserting,
"that is why God hastened his death." Indeed, it was not long before,
in the coastal city of Pattan, "a plague fron which people died
suddenly,... in two or three days" claimed Ghiyath al-Din, and Ibn Battuta
appears to have abandoned his designs on the Maldives.
He set sail once more for Honavar on India's west coast, and
once more he lost everything, this time to a sea-cordon of pirate vessels. Their
tactic was to disperse far out at sea but just within sight of each other. When
a victim neared, they communicated with light signals and swarmed on their
target en masse:
They took everything I had preserved for emergencies; they
took the pearls and rubies that the king of Ceylon had given me, they took my
clothes and the supplies given me by pious people.... They left me no covering
except my trousers.
It speaks well of Ibn Battuta's resourcefulness and the
brotherhood of the 'ulama that, after coming ashore stripped, he was
again well-dressed by day's end and, within weeks, had money to spend and was
again embarked on a boat headed for the Maldives, alone. It was a brief visit,
he told the decidedly mistrustful vizier and queen: He wanted only to see the
son he had fathered there. And five days later he was on his way to Bengal,
Sumatra, and on—to China.
At this point, it is fair to ask, "Why China?" The
superficial answer is that Ibn Battuta had obously determined to travel as
widely in Dar al Islam as he possibly could. From the Malabar coast of India,
China was almost as distant as Tangier, where he had started his traveling 20
years earlier. His first attempt to get to China was as the head of a royal
embassy, which would have been a magnificent way to see that country. Now he was
merely a well-traveled, politically savvy, well-connected qadi who
offered potential patrons a greater knowledge of world and a better grasp of how
it worked, than most of his peers. He had no particular need to go to China. Why
not pack up his sandals and go home?
Yet China was a tremendous attraction for travelers. From the
10th to the 13th century, mutually reinforcing prosperity in the Islamic lands,
under the Abbasids, and in China, under the Sung Dynasties, boosted Arab trade
to heady heights. The Mongol Yuan Dynasty took China in 1279, and despite the
Mongol devastations within Dar al-Islam, the maritime trade was little affected.
Omani and other traders, as before, continued their arduous, 18-month voyages
unmolested from the Arabian Gulf to Chüan-chou.
Even though the Yuan never embraced Islam, unlike the other
Mongol dynasties that controlled Persia and Central Asia, they tended to trust
Muslims more than they trusted their Chinese subjects. They esteemed Muslims as
men of their word, as merchants who did not err because of intoxication, and as
people whose behavior in the spirit of the Qur'an was also laudable by the
principles of Confucius. The Yuan's open-door policies filled their bureaucracy
with Muslims of all origins—not to mention a few Westerners like Niccolo Polo
and his son Marco. Thus Ibn Battuta may have been lured toward China for two of
the same reasons he had been lured to India: the prospect of employment, and a
persistent memory of the sage in Alexandria, Burhan al-Din, who two decades
earlier had predicted that Ibn Battuta would one day visit China and greet his
brother of the same name.
Ibn Battuta's account of his sojourn in China proper is much
briefer than that of the 5700-kilometer (3500-mi) voyage that took him there by
way of Burma and Sumatra. This is surprising in light of the rich detail
lavished earlier in the Rihla on every corner of the Indian subcontinent
that the traveler could reach. It is especially surprising given that a number
of Chinese ports were the most significant long-distance Muslim trade
destinations of the era, and the Marinid patron of the Rihla would hardly
be any less interested in news of those destinations than of India. Ibn
Battuta's scanty account of China is one of the great riddles of the Rihla.
The troubles are more than scant treatment, however. There is
plenty of evidence that either Ibn Battuta or the scribe of the Rihla,
Ibn Juzayy, incorporated the writings of others in the text or embellished
second-hand information, perhaps to supplement gaps in the traveler's memory.
Such liberties appear most egregiously in the account of Ibn Battuta's trip up
the Volga to "Bulgary" in the Urals, where his descriptions are fuzzy
and his chronology virtually impossible to follow. Similarly, in China, his
reliability is so maddeningly variable that one can argue for or against his
having been there at all. On the one hand, many of his visual descriptions are
just detailed enough to keep them in line with the rest of the Rihla. On
the other, the portions that describe Fu-chou, Hang-chou, and Beijing are so
devoid of anecdote and so generic that it is hard to believe that these are
first-hand recollections: More likely, he learned about these places from other
Muslim traders he met in the southern Chinese ports that he actually did visit,
and about which he offers reasonably rich, nuanced description.
Occasionally he is simply wrong, although the rarity of outright
error in the Rihla is part of what has made it such an enduringly
valuable document. En route to China he describes the port of Qaqula (now in
Myan-mar): "Elephants are very numerous there; they ride on them and use
them to carry loads.... The same is the case with all of the people of China and
Cathay [Northern China]." This is not correct, as anyone who had been to
China could attest and as Ibn Battuta himself should have known.
Elsewhere, his facts on China are largely correct, and they are
fascinating, if too brief. He describes the universal use of paper money, which
was also noted by others: "If anyone goes to the bazaar with a silver
dirham or dinar, no one will accept it from him until he changes it into balisht
[paper money]." He notes that fine porcelain costs less in China than
common pottery in India and Arabia. Some of the best, he says, comes from
Sin-Kalan, from whose name comes the word kaolin, the finest porcelain
clay known. Ibn Battuta also reports one of those revealing vignettes that say
much about the psychology of a culture:
The Chinese are of all peoples the most skillful in
depiction. I never returned to any of their cities after an earlier visit
without finding my portrait and the portraits of my companions drawn on the
walls and on sheets of paper exhibited in the bazaars.... I was told that the
sultan had ordered this. The artisans had come to the palace while we were there
and observed us, drawing our portraits without our noticing. If a stranger
commits any offense among them, they send his portrait far and wide. A search is
then made for him. Wheresoever a person resembling that portrait is found, he is
arrested.
But he was not always admiring. Here he notes the severity of
Chinese maritime customs inspections:
They order the ship's master to dictate to them a manifest of
all the merchandise in it, whether small or great. Then everyone disembarks and
the customs officials sit to inspect what they have with them. If they come upon
any article that has been concealed from them the junk and whatever is in it is
forfeit to the treasury. This is a kind of extortion I have seen in no country,
whether infidel or Muslim, except in China.
On the whole, Ibn Battuta seems to have enjoyed China less than
any other place he had so far visited. Although "the Chinese are of all
peoples the most skillful in crafts and attain the greatest perfection in
them," and "China is the safest and best country for the
traveler," the fussbudget, provincial side of his character came out here
in nines. Perhaps he was simply road-weary.
China, for all its magnificence, did not please me.... When I
left my lodging I saw many offensive things which distressed me so much that I
stayed at home and went out only when it was necessary. When I saw Muslims it
was as though I had met my family and my relatives.
After a sojourn of less than a year—the exact duration is
uncertain—a "rebellion broke out and disorders flared up," giving
him a welcome excuse to quit the country. He left aboard a friend's India-bound
junk. Though he was not fully aware of it, he was on his way home.
In India, he met only ghosts of his past: "I wanted to
return to Delhi, but became afraid to do so." He sailed on to Oman.
By this point in his travels, the flush of youthful discovery
and the prospects of success just over the horizon seem to have left Ibn
Battuta—or perhaps by this point in his recounting he was growing weary of
dictating to Ibn Juzayy. For whatever reason, a few pages suffice to cover his
return from China, via Baghdad, Damascus and Cairo, to make his fourth Hajj in
Makkah.
Among those pages are one of the Rihla's most harrowing
accounts. It was late spring in 1348, in Aleppo, when Ibn Battuta learned that
"at Gaza the plague had broken out and the number of deaths reached over a
thousand a day." Although his numbers were hardly official statistics, his
impressions of the Black Death are now certainly first-hand:
Iwent to Horns and found that the plague had
already struck there; about 300 persons died on the day of my arrival. I went to
Damascus and arrived on a Thursday; the people had been fasting for three
days.... The number of deaths among them had risen to 2400 a day.... Then we
went to Gaza and found most of it deserted because of the number that had
died.... The qadi told me that only a quarter of the 80 notaries there
were left and that the number of deaths had risen to 1100 a day.... Then I went
to Cairo and was told that during the plague the number of deaths rose to 21,000
a day. I found that all the shaykhs I had known were dead. May God Most
High have mercy upon them!
He reported only on the areas he visited, and that briefly.
Today we know that the plague was as great a pandemic in Dar al-Islam as it was
in Europe, and that to the east, the Great Wall did nothing to stop the rat and
the flea that brought the disease to China in cargoes of grain. The scale of the
deaths there was taken as a sign that the mandate of heaven had been withdrawn
and that the Yuan Dynasty would fall. Fourteen years later, it did.
In Damascus Ibn Battuta learned that a son he had fathered there
had died 12 years before and that his own father had died no fewer than 15 years
earlier in Tangier. But his mother, a fellow Berber reported, was still alive,
though now advanced in years. He resolved to see her.
But first he made his intended fourth Hajj. He remained in
Makkah from Ramadan through the month of the Hajj, about three months, and
"every day I visited the holy places." He comments little on the city
in this passing, and little on plague-ridden Cairo, now a honeycomb without
honey. The great builder, Mamluk sultan al-Nasir Muhammad Qala'un, had nine
years earlier fallen to a cabal of rivals, under whom the city's administration
all but collapsed.
Further west, the tribes of Ifriqiyyah were once more besieging
Tunis. The one strong leader in the region, Abu al-Hasan, seized the central
Maghrib, then sent an expedition to retake Gibraltar. Emboldened by its success,
he sent another into Spain to try to stop and drive back the waves of Christian
knights out of Castile, but he lost much of his army at the battle of Río
Salado, an event that augured the last scene of the last act of Islam's presence
in southwestern Spain and Portugal.
Ibn Battuta says nothing of his filial feelings as he made his
halting way toward Tangier, but surely they were there. Then, alas: In Taza,
near Fez, he learned that death had knocked on his mother's door before he had
been able to. She had died of the plague that he had escaped.
In Fez, Ibn Battuta presented to the Marinid sultan's
representative. Considering that Sultan Abu 'Inan was later to become Ibn
Battuta's final and most steadfast patron, as well as the underwriter of the Rihla,
it is understandable that the traveler now spends little time describing his
private reunions with family, friends and colleagues and indulges instead in the
rhetorical equivalent of kissing the soil-of his homeland—as well as the staff
of its ruler. It is a reminder again of his ability to ingratiate himself with
the right person in the right way at the right time, at home no less than
abroad.
Istood before our exalted master, the most
generous imam, the Commander of the Faithful,... Abu 'Inan, may God establish
his grandeur and crush his enemies. His majesty caused me to forget the majesty
of the sultan of Iraq, his beauty caused me to forget that of the king of India,
his gracious manners those of the king of Yemen, his courage the king of the
Turks.... I laid down my traveling staff in his noble country after verifying,
with superabundant impartiality, that it is the best of countries.
This panegyric carries on for several pages of the Rihla,
but when Ibn Battuta moves on to Tangier, he describes in one sentence his visit
to his mother's tomb, and in the next three sentences a visit to Ceuta, his
illness there, and his decision "to take part in the jihad and the
defense of the frontier" against the Christians in Spain.
So though the great traveler had returned home, he was not yet
done traveling. There were two more significant journeys to make, one to the
north, and one to the south.
In contrast to the anomalous China narrative, his descriptions
of al-Andalus are no less copious and rich than the rest of the Rihla.
For anyone who has been to southern Spain, the scenery has been changed only in
that the tracks he walked are now mostly paved roads, and that, in the towns,
television antennae clutter what were then unbroken roofscapes of red tile.
Ibn Battuta was as charmed with Granada as visitors are today.
It was the time of Yusuf I, who was then building the Alhambra, though Ibn
Battuta does not mention it. He does mention one item, almost in passing, that
speaks again of the extraordinary mobility of the population of Dar al-Islam in
the early 14th century: There was a company of Persians in Granada, he notes,
"who have made their homes there because of its resemblance to their native
lands. One is from Samarkand, another from Tabriz, a third from Konya [Turkey],
two from Khurasan, two from India, and so on."
He also met a young man, scion of a long line of gentleman
poets, who was mesmerized by the places and people Ibn Battuta had seen. His
name was Muhammad ibn Juzayy, and he wrote down a number of the traveler's
stories, sketchily and spontaneously. The two would meet again, in Fez, some
five years later, when Ibn Juzayy would be commissioned to record the full
extent of Ibn Battuta's travels. In the Rihla, Ibn Juzayy notes as an
aside: "I was with them in that garden [in al-Andalus]. Shaykh Abu
'Abdallah [Ibn Battuta] delighted us with the story of his travels."
Then Shaykh Abu 'Abdallah returned to Fez by way of Rabat and
Marrakech, where he noted "magnificent mosques, like the principal mosque,
known as the Mosque of the Booksellers. It has a wonderful and awe-inspiring
minaret, which I climbed and from which the whole town can be seen." Today
we can't climb that minaret, but we can certainly agree on its beauty.
When he got back to Morocco, political conditions were stable
and Sultan Abu 'Inan was building the finest madrasa Fez had ever known.
Ibn Battuta was three years short of his 50th birthday. What a wonderful place
and time this would have been to end his pereginations!
But no. By now Ibn Battuta had traversed the entirety of Dar
al-Islam except that part almost the closest to his home, but which, because of
the difficulty of getting there, was, in practical terms, farther away than all
the rest.
On the first day of the month of Muharram in early 1352, Ibn
Battuta left with a caravan to cross the Sahara to Mali and bilad al-sudan,
"the country of the blacks." Today, Tuareg guides in their indigo blue
still make that camel trek, from Goulemine in Morocco, near his departure point
of Sijilmasa, then prosperous but now deserted. The crossing takes 63 days. Ibn
Battuta did not count them, but simply described the trip as "long and
arduous."
It was not out of casual curiosity that Ibn Battuta went in this
direction. Central West Africa was on the rise, undergoing its own remarkable
blossoming. The upper valleys of the Senegal and Niger rivers were fruitful.
They easily provisioned the rich gold mines at Bambuk and Bure. Had the demand
for gold from Dar al-Islam been all there was, the region around the kingdom of
Mali would have maintained a prosperous but stagnant economy. But there was far
greater demand for gold. The Christian lands of Europe were converting to stably
priced but foreign gold from local, but price-volatile, silver. The effect on
Mali, which then produced 60 percent or more of the world's total supply of
gold, was an economic boom. The new wealth could support stronger armies, whose
conquests in turn enlarged the tax base to include more farmers and herders.
The caravans of camels that carried the gold of Mali north to
Morocco also carried the region's other exports, such as hides, nuts, ostrich
and other feathers, ivory and salt. In the opposite direction went cotton
textiles, spices, finished jewelry, grain, dried fruit, horses for the Malian
army, and the metals that West and Central Africa lacked: silver, copper, and
iron. One example alone demonstrated the extraordinary range of the Muslim
commercial system: Cowrie shells from the Maldives were used as money in Sudan
and Mali, and gold from Mali turned up in the Maldives, 9000 kilometers (5500
mi) and an ocean away.
The Mali-Morocco trade was dominated by Berber merchants, who
had settled in Mali and the savanna lands south of the gold fields. Thanks to
their connections with these merchants, Muslim traders also arrived, settled
among the locals, built mosques and called the people to prayer. Muslim concepts
of fair trade helped bring order to the boom times and won their practitioners
respect that reflected well on their religion.
As with other expansions of Islam, conversion brought the need
for administration, for qadis, for 'ulama, and all the
administrative infrastructure that was part of the network that had produced Ibn
Battuta and thrived by his labors and those of his colleagues. This process is
spectacularly illustrated by the example of Mali's most fabled king, mansa
("sultan") Musa, who became a legend by distributing so much gold in
Cairo en route to the Hajj in 1324 that he depressed the market. The chronicler
al-'Umari wrote: "He established the Friday observances [in his kingdom],
prayers in the congregation, and the muezzin's call. He brought jurists...to his
country and...became a student of religious sciences."
This was a familiar pattern to Ibn Battuta, and he pursued what
role he could in it. But this last adventure produced few of the glories of his
previous ones. In fact, it had pretty much the opposite effect. He begins
observantly enough:
[In Taghaza] there are no trees, only sand in which is a salt
mine.... They dig the ground and thick slabs are found in it, lying on each
other as if they had been cut and stacked under the ground. A camel carries two
slabs.... A load of it is sold at [Walata] for eight to 10 mithqals, and
in the city of Malli for 20 to 30, sometimes 40. The blacks trade with salt as
others trade with gold and silver; they cut it in pieces and buy and sell with
these. For all its squalor qintars and qintars of gold 'dust are
traded there. We spent 10 days there, under strain, for the water is brackish
and it is the place with the most flies.
The next stage of his journey, from Taghaza to Walata, was some
800 kilometers (500 mi), broken by only one oasis. The terrain was so barren,
and the chance of becoming lost so great, that a relief-convoy system had
evolved. Caravan leaders would hire a local Musafa tribesman to act as a takshif,
a messenger who, for a high fee, would precede them and inform the merchants of
Walata of the caravan's coming. Those merchants then equipped a convoy of
water-bearers to march four days' distance out to meet the incoming caravan. The
takshif was paid only when the two groups met, and "sometimes the takshif
perishes in this desert and the people of [Walata] know nothing of the caravan,
and its people, or most of them, perish too." Imagine the relieved sighs
when the men of the caravan—traveling mostly at night because of the
heat—saw the lights of the water convoy on the horizon!
In Walata, some 400 kilometers (250 mi) west of Timbuktu, Ibn
Battuta was less than impressed by his reception. The local governor spoke to
him only through an interlocutor, and, though he was told this was correct
Malian protocol, the qadi took offense. His sour mood curdled altogether
when "the repast was served—some pounded millet mixed with a little honey
and milk and put into a calabash shaped like a large bowl." Ibn Battuta, a
man accustomed to the cuisine of the finest courts of the world, was taken
aback, and conceived an uncharitable sentiment that he harbored for the rest of
his trip: "I then became convinced that no good was to be hoped for from
these people." Nonetheless, he remained in that country for 50 days, and
admitted that "its people treated me with respect and gave me
hospitality."
From Mali he took to the Niger River, which he mistook for the
Nile, since it flows eastward through Mali before abruptly turning south into
Nigeria. He wrote copiously about this region, especially its Arabic language
and Islamic culture, and recounted stories about cannibal tribes in the south.
Later, in the capital of Mali, which he neither names nor
locates, he visited Mansa Suleyman and noted that "he is a miserly king and
a big gift is not to be expected from him." To make Ibn Battuta's mood
worse, he contracted food poisoning from a meal that killed one of its six
partakers. He waited at the qadi's house for a welcoming gift. When it
arrived, he expected "robes of honor and money, but there were three round
loaves of bread, a piece of beef fried in gharti, and a calabash with
curdled milk. When I saw it I laughed and was greatly surprised at their feeble
intelligence and exaggerated opinion of something contemptible."
At this point in the Rihla, we begin to get an impression
of travel-weariness, probably exacerbated by extended illness. Fortunately for
Ibn Battuta—and for our impression of 14th-century Mali—there were also
better times, such as what appears to have been a pleasant river trip by dugout
canoe from near Timbuktu to Gao on the Niger, which he continues to refer to as
the Nile:
At Tunbuktu [sic] Iembarked on the Nile in a
little boat hollowed out from a single piece of wood. Every night we stopped at
a village where we bought the food and butter we needed, paying with salt,
aromatics and glass trinkets. We reached a town whose name I have forgotten; the
amir was an excellent man, a hajji.
Later, journeying over the desert to Takadda, "I fell ill
from the extreme heat and excess of bile. We hastened our march." He
recovered sufficiently to visit a nearby copper mine, and then a messenger
arrived with a command from the sultan of Fez, ordering his return to his
exalted capital.
I kissed [the letter] and obeyed instantly. I bought two
riding camels...[and] took on provisions for 70 nights, for no grain is found
between Takadda and Tawat. Only meat, curdled milk and butter are to be had;
they are bought with cloth.
On the trek back he was rather better impressed by the rough but
sincere piety of some Berber customs:
We...reached the country of the Hoggar, a Berber clan,... who
are scoundrels. We had arrived in their country in the month of Ramadan, during
which they do not go on raids or intercept caravans; if their robbers find goods
on the road in Ramadan they do not take them. It is so with all Berbers along
this road.
We can almost hear him sighing, "Civilization at
last!"
In January 1354 Ibn Battuta arrived back in Fez to an
enthusiastic welcome from Sultan Abu 'Inan, who deemed Ibn Battuta's stories
worth recording. He assigned the task to the scribe and poet Ibn Juzayy, who had
been so impressed with Ibn Battuta when they met in Granada and who may indeed
have expressed an enthusiasm for the job. Although we know Ibn Battuta's account
today by its generic title of Rihla, its original title was more florid,
in the court style of the day: Tuhfat al-Nuzzar fi Ghara'ib al-Amsar
wa-'Aja'ib al-Asfar [A Gift to Those Who Contemplate the Wonders of Cities and
the Marvels of Traveling).
Strictly defined, a rihla was a written account of a Hajj
ourney. We saw earlier how portions of Ibn Battuta's descriptions of Madinah and
Makkah closely paralleled, or were copied directly from, a rihla of Ibn
Jubayr's penned a century earlier. Such unacknowledged copying, done with or
without Ibn Battuta's knowledge, was not fair play by the standards of his time
any more than our own, but perhaps bn Juzayy thought that only one pair of
eyes—the sultan's—would ever read this rihla.
More forgivable are Ibn Juzayy's touching up Ibn Battuta's prose
with the addition of narrative highlights, since most of hem are likely
indistinguishable from the moments of Ibn Battuta's own fitful eloquence that
Ibn Juzayy claimed to have ecorded verbatim. Ibn Juzayy was, after all, a
professional court poet, and the eloquence of the finished work, both
colaboraters knew, would reflect less on either of them than on he work's
patron, the sultan. Thus beautiful writing and specacular description was a
matter, once again, of knowing vhich side of the narrative bread would receive
the royal buter. And there is, of course, the question of first- and second-land
information from Ibn Battuta himself: How much redence did he give to tales
wafting through the caravansaries? We cannot tell, and so must be content with
what we have.
Ironically, despite these questions, Ibn Battuta only came to be
appreciated centuries after his death. His peers and con-temporaries, the
Moroccan 'ulama, often flatly disbelieved him and said so. Some dismissed
him as a qadi of middling rank who substituted tall tales for a
respectable record of juridical achievement—a sentiment perhaps spread by some
degree of envy, provincialism and academic rivalry. Ibn Khaldun, the great
political scientist and sociologist who was a lose contemporary of Ibn Battuta,
muttered darkly that the latter "reported things...that his listeners
considered strange." Abu al-Barakat al-Balafiqi of Granada called him
"purely and simply a liar," and said snidely that Ibn Battuta
"possessed only a modest share of knowledge." Though Abu al-Barakat
lay have been technically correct in that statement, which of the two is being
read today? A more gracious comment came in the 15th century from Muhammad ibn
Marzuk, a scholar who said, "I know of no person who journeyed to so many
lands...on his travels, and he was generous and well-doing."
After that, little is heard about the Rihla, although it
circulated in Arabic, mostly in the Maghrib, until European scholars
rediscovered it a century and a half ago. It attracted the interest of historian
Sir Hamilton Gibb, whose unabridged translation made the Rihla widely
available in English beginning in 1958, and from whose definitive, four-volume
work (with minor liberties) the translations in this article have been taken.
Ibn Battuta died in 1369 at the age of 65. His death came 11 or
12 years after he finished dictating the Rihla, a project that appears to
have come to an end with the death of Ibn Juzayy. We know nothing of the rest of
Ibn Battuta's life, except that he served as a qadi in an unrecorded
Moroccan town. He had no known descendants in Morocco.
As to his world, one of the great virtues of the Rihla is
that it is so voluminous that everyone who reads it finds facets to enjoy. Let
us focus for a concluding moment on one largely unremarked but very important
aspect of the work: Local markets. Here are the prices of chickens, there the
markups for salt, and everywhere the cash and barter prices for no end of eggs,
cucumbers, yams, jewelry, household items, perfumes, carpets, and so on, to say
nothing of the cash price for other cash. The Rihla is our era's only
available stroll through the supermarkets and banks of the early 14th century,
the only source for the longue durée view of history that became so
influential in the second half of the 20th century. Put these details together
with his descriptions of transport and delivery infrastructure, support them
with his specifics on the number and funding of waqfs, madrasas, royal
entourages, modes of taxation, armies, shipbuilding and the organizing of
caravans, and there takes shape before our eyes an enormous canvas detailing the
workings of an intricate, sophisticated, global, pre-industrial economy.
Ibn Battuta's venture across the Sahara shows vividly
that the world he traveled through was not demarcated by linear borders,
as it is on maps—though not always in fact—today. Rather, the
geographical limits of a 14th-century ruler's power were more like
what we see at night from a commercial jet at cruising altitude. Looking
down from the airplane, we see cities as intense agglomerations of light
whose brilliance becomes progressively less as we look from the city
centers to the suburbs. The lights thin out further as we look at less
populated countryside, with lines stretching outward along river courses
and fertile valleys until finally, in the open, scantily populated
lands, there appears only the occasional flicker of an outpost. Then the
land goes dark, until traces of the tentacles of the next urban core
begin to appear.
The sultanates, kingdoms, fleeting petty trading states
and vast dynastic empires that Ibn Battuta visited were also lights seen
from altitude. Around the temple and the palace, the shining core of
power, were the houses of the nobles, hardly less brilliant. Beyond
them, within easy serving distance, lay the quarters of merchants,
workers and students, shining lights of intellect and the industry. Then
there were suburbs of the somewhat well-to-do, the government
functionaries, the retired soldiers, whose light was mostly a reflection
of the light at the center. Finally came the poor quarters of laborers,
freed slaves, disenfranchised farmers, refugees from other
principalities' wars, and others of the underclasses. Beyond them lay
the fields, though only as far as water might be found. Where these last
skeins of light ended, so also did the ruler's writ—a fact ruefully
noted by every tax collector sent to perform his duties in the
hinterlands